05/26/08

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The Deccan Odyssey, by BJ (Part 5) 25th May '08

After what seemed like a very short night, our train arrives at Daulatabad, where the traditional Indian greeting is augmented with a dance group made up of young men and boys, their facial makeup including lipstick apparently creating an identity crisis for many of them.  But their enthusiasm was infectious and we were soon caught up in the festive mood.

From the station we travel by coach through the ancient city of Daulatabad, today little more than a village and a collection of ancient ruins, to the 12^th century Fort of the same name.  Built on top of a solitary hill rising some 200 metres above the Deccan plateau, the Fort is famous for its complex series of defences, which over the centuries proved to be impregnable. 

As we climb the hill, we pass through huge Elephant Gates set in the outer walls and then the path narrows as it approaches a long, slender draw bridge spanning the stagnant green waters of the moat, some 12 metres below and once infested with crocodiles.     Beyond the moat, the narrow passage way continues to weave it’s way through the towering fortifications, restricting potential invaders to single file and making it impossible to overwhelm the defenders by sheer numbers.  Final entry to the Fort is by way of a climbing, circular tunnel, completely devoid of natural light, with varying floor levels and hidden steps to trip the unwary.  Only as a result of treachery were these defences ever penetrated.

From the Fort we travel by coach to the Ellora Caves, about 30 kilometres from Aurangabad.  Set in a high, sloping, basalt cliff, the caves which are spread over some 2 kilometers, are all man made, carved from solid rock to form a series of magnificent monasteries and temples!

In total there are 34 caves at Ellora, dating from as early as 600 AD and representing the three major religions of Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism in an amazing display of tolerance that was characteristic of ancient India.  The caves were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 and it’s not hard to see why.

Approaching from the car park, the scale of this place slowly sinks in as the outline of temples come into view, protruding from the face of the black, basalt cliffs.  Surrounding these temples, huge square voids project back into the sloping cliff like modern day quarries, hinting at the size of the courtyards surrounding these monuments.  People can be seen roaming the sloping cliffs, peering into these temple complexes from above, their ant like appearance putting the enormous size of this undertaking into true perspective. 

Without doubt, the largest and most impressive of the caves at Ellora is the Kailasa Temple, a Hindu Cave.  Covering an area twice the size of the Parthenon in Athens and one and a half times as high, it is simply overwhelming.  It has been estimated that some 200,000 tons of solid rock were carved away to form the Temple and surrounding courtyards, the whole process starting at the top with the roof, slowly working down the walls to the floor level.

Steps lead up into the first temple building, like a large entrance hall, which spills out into the internal courtyard and on into another series of multi level temples. Huge stone elephants guard the courtyard, its vertical walls undercut with galleries that surround the temple on three sides.  Not content to just hollow out caverns and rooms, the ancient artisans that created these architectural wonders have sculptured incredible detail into every column, wall, ceiling, and courtyard, making them every bit  the equal of any other temple complex built by more traditional methods. 

Of all the caves at Ellora, the Hindu Caves are the most impressive, but numerous others are well worth visiting if time permits.  Cave Number 12 for example is a three story cave, entered via a courtyard and which contains a large seated Buddha.  The walls of this cave are also carved with relief pictures, similar to the Hindu caves.

But with time against us, we have to leave the caves and return to the train which has moved to Aurangabad Station, where we settle into the now familiar, nightly routine.

The following day finds us at Jalgaon Railway Station, headed for another series of caves, this time the Ajanta Caves, about an hour away by coach.

Carved between the 2^nd century BC and the 6^th century AD, the Ajanta caves were lost in time for centuries, covered by thick vegetation and only accidently re-discovered in the 19^th Century by a company of British soldiers.

Carved into the horseshoe shaped walls of a river valley, from solid basalt rock like Ellora,  the Ajanta Caves have also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but for significantly different reasons. The Ajanta Caves, all 30 of which are dedicated to Buddhism, lack the architectural grandeur of Ellora but make up for this with the incredible murals and artwork that adorns their walls and ceilings.  The Ajanta Caves house one of the worlds great masterpieces of ancient art, depicting every day life as well as the religious teachings of Budda, most of it more than 2,000 years old!

Our guide takes us to the best of the Caves where the artwork is in varying states of decay with some sections completely missing, but what does remain is quite stunning.  Only natural light is now permitted in these caves, often making it extremely difficult to see the artwork clearly.  Video and flash photography of course are banned, severely limiting one’s ability to record these masterpieces.

But although there is no denying the significance of the artwork at Ajanta, one should not loose sight of the architectural and engineering achievements that have been created here.  These massive caverns, some of which project into the hillside 50 or 60 metres and are perhaps 20 metres in width, are supported by precisely spaced columns of stone, in row after row of perfectly straight lines, all left in place as the surrounding rock was chipped away.  And whilst their structural necessity is unquestionable when it comes to supporting the massive basalt roof, they are not just left as structural supports; each column is beautifully finished with superb craftsmanship and detail. 

From Ajanta we travel back to the train and depart for Nashik Station 185 kilometers from Mumbai, arriving late in the afternoon.   With a Police guard in tow, complete with a highly visible automatic weapon, we head for town.  It’s the only time we’ve had the presence of such a guard but Nashik, on the banks of the Godavari River, is one of four major sites in India where the Hindu religious pilgrimage known as Kumbh Mela  occurs every 12 years with millions flocking to the river.  Whilst no such pilgrimage is taking place during our visit, there is obviously some sort of security risk to which we’re thankfully oblivious.

The late afternoon stroll through the back streets and along the river banks of Nashik proves to be one of the highlights of the trip.  Along each side of the river, steps lead down to the water where locals are performing ritualistic cleansing and lighting small candles supported in lilies that drift off on the slowly moving waters.  With the sun setting behind a skyline of ornate temples, the sight of dozens of flickering candles adrift on the river, is pure magic.

Above the steps the local markets are in full swing as dusk moves in and dozens of bright red lamp shades add to the colour of the produce on sale.  We mingle with the local crowds, enthralled with the array of products on offer and captivated by the charming, friendly nature of the sellers.  Our guard and our ‘minders’ from the train are kept busy trying to keep track of everyone’s movements as we spread through this huge,  open air market.

But eventually we’re herded out of the markets, through the Kala Ram Temple, built in 1790 and back into the bustling streets where our bus awaits.  It’s been a delightful evening and we head back to the Station for our last night on the Deccan Odyssey.

Early the next morning the train arrives back in Mumbai and after a relaxing breakfast, swapping of e-mail addresses and the usual hugs and kisses, we leave the Deccan Odyssey behind and head to the Taj Hotel for a well earned rest and a bed that doesn’t move.  

The Deccan Odyssey has been an enjoyable trip and far more relaxing than the Palace on Wheels.  Whilst the majority of the trip, particularly the journey south to Goa, lacks the major sight seeing attractions found in Rajasthan, the Ellora and Ajanta Caves certainly make up for this and are well worth the journey. 

Two train trips, back to back, of the same intensity as the Palace on Wheels may well have been too hectic, so the relaxed  pace of the Deccan Odyssey was for us, a welcome change.  Travelling through this fascinating sub-continent by luxury train has certainly been a great way to see what can only be described as Incredible India!

The Deccan Odyssey, by BJ (Part 4) 11th May '08

Early the next morning the train arrives at Kolhapur City and a surprise awaits us.  Before disembarking for the day’s events we’re gathered in the Conference Car where the men in our group are fitted with bright, Saffron coloured turbans!  Anne objects to being left out of the fun and as we’re such a small group, she is soon fitted with her very own. 

The Saffron Turban is a speciality of Kolhapur, offered to guests from other areas as a sign of high respect.  Each one is individually wrapped, from some 4 metres of cloth.  

Feeling more appropriately dressed for the Gay Parade rather than a day of site seeing, we disembark.

Our tour takes us to the Kolhapur Palace or the New Palace as it’s often known.  The Palace is still the private residence of the Maharaja but large sections have been opened as a Museum, displaying everything from antique royal furniture to weapons and hunting trophies.

Built in the 1880’s from black polished stone and highlighted by a 45 metre high clock tower, the Palace is typical of the era with noticeable British influence.  Some of the displays however are starting to show signs of their age and in need of important maintenance. I suspect the deterioration is simply due to a lack of funds, perhaps brought on by the change in Government policy that resulted in Maharajas being stripped of royal titles and consequentially, income from local taxes.

As we leave the Palace, bus loads of school children arrive for a visit and suddenly we’re the centre of attention as they all strive to have their photo taken!  Once again the feeling here is one of friendliness and not the harassment of Rajhastan, where everyone wants a piece of the tourist dollar.

Passing back through town we stop to visit the exquisitely carved Mahalaxmi Temple, parts of which date back to 700 AD.  The Temple is one of 6 extremely significant religious sites within Hinduism, where it is believed that one can either obtain salvation from desires or have them fulfilled, a very interesting concept that perhaps accounts for its popularity.  We’ve arrived here on a Public Holiday and the crowds waiting to enter the Temple are enormous.  We satisfy ourselves with the outside tour, our desires unfortunately, remaining intact and unfulfilled!

Our next stop is at the Town Hall, where an amazing demonstration of ancient military skills is put on for our benefit. The Sword and Lance, for which this area is famous, are the two main weapons featured and there is no denying the skill and the courage of the young performers involved.

The martial arts display is followed by a short cultural Play, the theme and story line escaping me, but again, the enthusiasm of the performers certainly rates a ten out of ten.

Lunch is served back on the train as we depart for our next destination.

Early that evening we arrive in Pune, a city of 5 million people, 150 kilometres to the east of Mumbai.   We’ve come here to visit the Raja Dinkar Kelkar Museum.

Established in 1975, the Government run Museum houses over 20,000 priceless artifacts collected and donated by Dr. D.G. Kalkar, which provide an interesting glimpse into everyday life in India from the 17^th to the 19^th century.  Collected during some sixty years of travel across the sub-continent, the collection ranges from ivory, metal, wooden and fabric items housed in glass showcases to massive wooden doors and carved panels which adorn the staircase and entrances to the showrooms. 

Later that evening, after a long and tiring day, the train departs for Daulatab.

The Deccan Odyssey, by BJ (Part 3) 2nd May '08

The train arrives at Karmali Station (Old Goa Station) in time for breakfast. We’re no sooner seated in the Dining Car when a couple of local guitar playing ‘cowboys’ appear to serenade us. The musical welcome continues on the Station Platform as we disembark and head for our bus. There is a real sense of Portuguese influence in both the appearance and music of our entertainers, an influence that makes its presence felt through out this region.

First stop on our daily tour is at the ruins of St. Augustine Church, once the largest Cathedral in Goa.  Constructed by the Portuguese in 1602, little remains today except for isolated remnants of Cathedral walls and a solitary tower rising to a height of 46 metres.  But despite the decay, the grandeur of the old building is still plainly evident and is the subject of ongoing restoration.

As the morning progresses, the churches keep coming, with the Basilica of Bom Jesus next on the list.  Located about 10 kilometers from the City of Panjim, this World Heritage Cathedral was completed in 1695 and  is considered to be one of the best examples of baroque architecture in India.

But perhaps of even greater significance is the fact that the Basilica contains the body of St. Francis Xavier, who died in 1552 whilst on a sea voyage to China.   The body, kept in a silver casket with glass viewing panels, apparently is remarkably intact considering its age and is publicly displayed every 10 years.  For those with a need, the next viewing will be in 2014!

A short walk from the Basilica is the Cathedral of Santa Caterina, one of the oldest and largest churches in Asia.  Commenced in 1562, the stunning white building was completed in 1619 and is some 80 metres in length.  Again, the Portuguese influence is plainly visible in this beautiful church and its surroundings.

Our next stop is in the heart of Panjim, the capitol of Goa, where we browse the local markets.  It’s noisy, crowded and at times smelly but incredibly colourful. All the usual items found in any Asian market are here, but the sight of dozens of small, young sharks on sale in the fish section, is sad and disappointing.

From the markets we head to Fontanas, the Latin Quarter of Panjim, where the streets are lined with colorful buildings and street names are displayed on blue and white tiles reminiscent of Portugal or Argentina.

The heavy Portuguese influence in this area is really not surprising when one considers the fact that Goa was occupied by the Portuguese for some 450 years, only being reclaimed by India as late as 1961.

Lunch is provided at the magnificent Taj Exotica Hotel.  Set on 55 acres next to the pristine Arabian Sea, the Resort exhibits a rich colonial atmosphere and was to play host to a 1500 guest wedding reception on the evening of our visit, the reception area being set up on the lawns adjacent to the beach.

Later that afternoon we return to the train at Madgoan Station, somewhat relieved to escape the sub-tropical heat and humidity of Goa, relaxing  in the air-conditioned comfort of our cabin with tea and coffee delivered by our Coach Boy, Harish.

At 5:00 pm the train departs, winding its way through rice fields, coconut palms and idyllic villages, the bright colours of the women’s Sari’s contrasting vividly with the lush tropical green of the country side.

As night falls we commence the slow climb into the mountains to the east of Goa.  Two additional diesel locomotives have hooked onto the rear of our 21 carriage train to assist in the climb. 

Slowly but steadily we crawl higher up into the coastal mountain range, the wheels screeching as the train snakes around torturous curves, first in one direction, then the opposite as we follow the contour of the steep ridges.  Harish tells us were approaching a spectacular water fall and opens the carriage door so we can get a better view in the darkness.

A half moon casts an eerie light onto the dense, virgin rain forest that covers these mountains, at times overhanging the track, threatening to reclaim the land from the railway. There’s not a light or a village in sight, not a sign of habitation for miles. Harish sits in the open door way to prevent us falling out and we marvel at this emptiness in a land of over 1 billion people and at the dark ridges of these mountains that tower high above us, outlined against the moonlit sky.

And then suddenly, the jungle clears, and there directly opposite us is this ribbon of silver, twisting, disappearing and then reappearing, as the falls tumble through the dense foliage, from the very top of the mountain into the black depths of the gorge far below.  Slowly the train turns around the ridge and we pass right by the falls, this time on the other side of the carriage and the roar of the water can clearly be heard. A solitary dwelling, illuminated by a dim light, sits on a rocky outcrop overlooking this incredible scene.

We close the door on the forest and adjourn to dinner, a glass or two of wine and then retreat to our cabin. Tonight the train will travel all night and tomorrow promises to be a long day.

The Deccan Odyssey, by BJ (Part 2) 1st May '08

The train is moving again, but we’ve enjoyed a much needed rest whilst it was stationary during the night.  Although we now feel like seasoned train travelers, sleeping on board a moving train when the track work is not up to modern, high speed ‘TGV’ standards, can be very difficult.

A leisurely wake up call the next morning with coffee served to our Cabin in fine Silver and China is followed by a wonderful breakfast in the Dining Car. Waiters hover everywhere, the traditional Taj Hotel service enhanced by the lack of guests. 

Our fellow passengers, a delightful family of four from South Africa and two guys from Kazakhstan, one of whom is a Professor of Law, join us for breakfast as we rattle our way south.  All of us are in shock to some degree to think this 21 carriage train, snaking its way across the Indian sub-continent, is just for the eight of us. The staff may have tried to make us feel like Maharaja’s on the Palace On Wheels, but in comparison, this is really like being royalty.

We arrive at Ratnagiri Railway Station, a little under 400 kilometers south of Mumbai and step off to a welcome of flowers, red dots and charming people.  Somehow it all seems a bit too much just for the eight of us, but the Deccan Odyssey is just another Taj Hotel and runs no matter how few guests are booked.

The morning is spent touring the local village and lookouts along the truly magnificent Konkan coast, before paying a visit to the home of Lokmanya Tilak, known by the western press in 1907 as “the father of the Indian uprising”.

Credited with arousing major uprisings against the British, he was deported to Burma in 1907, where he remained for 8 years.  Following his death in 1920, his role as head of Indian nationalism was taken up by none other than Mahatma Gandhi.

Lunch is provided at the Ganapatipule Beach Resort where we spend a couple of hours relaxing on the uncluttered, pristine beaches of this coast.  The temperature hovers around 30 degrees and the waters are warm and clean.  Yes, clean! 

After lunch we’re invited to visit a nearby Hindu Temple and offered various means of transport for the short journey.  

“Miss Adventurous” of course selects the bullock drawn cart, the model pre-dating suspension systems that almost necessitated a chiropractor’s visit to re-arrange bones and body parts after the short trip!  But as it was so appropriately pointed out to me, it was an experience.  I had no argument with that, it was the value of the experience I was at odds with!

But a relaxing cruise up the quiet backwaters of a nearby river later that afternoon, past isolated villages and thick tropical vegetation, soothed our aching bodies.  We stepped ashore in a small community where local village people smiled and willingly posed for photos without demanding money and a walk through the local market did not result in being constantly harassed to purchase unwanted goods.  It was a very refreshing change to the crowded, touristy destinations of Rajasthan. 

The following day is very similar, with the relaxed change of pace from the Palace on Wheels, highly appreciated.  We spend the morning visiting Sindhudurg Fort, located in the sea a short boat ride from the small coastal town of Malvan.

Built in 1664, the fortress was constructed on a small rocky island that barely protrudes above sea level and covers some 48 acres.  It’s a delightful setting with the 9 metre high walls constructed so as to cleverly conceal the only entrance to this unique fortress in the sea.  Although this was once a major naval base of the Maratha Empire, little exists here today apart from the walls and an ancient temple.

Lunch is provided at the Tarkarli Beach Resort with plenty of time provided to relax on the warm sands and bathe in the clear waters of the Arabian Sea.  The Chef, the food and even the China, comes from the Deccan Odyssey.  Nothing is left to chance - having a guest come down with Delhi Bellie is just not an option the Management is prepared to risk. 

Again we cruise the back water creeks and visit local villages before enjoying a cultural evening at the Shilpagrama Art and Craft Centre where dancing, puppet shows and the art of preparing local cuisine, is all demonstrated.

Later that evening, we board the train for dinner and the short, overnight run to Goa.

The Deccan Odyssey Pt 1 by BJ (19th April '08)

With the first of our two Indian train trips completed (see Rajasthan By Train) we’re driven to Delhi Airport to board our domestic flight to Mumbai, where we’ll pick up the next train, the Deccan Odyssey.  Named after the Deccan Plateau, a huge expanse of basalt and granite in southern India over which the train travels, The Deccan Odyssey will be home for the next 8 days whilst we travel south to Goa and return. 

Our flight is on Jet Airways, one of about seven domestic carriers now operating in India and much to our relief, appears to be a well run, polished operation with good equipment and great staff.  Apart from running delays that appear to be a standard feature of air travel in India because of the smog, we have an uneventful flight.

Mumbai  has changed from the days when we last visited as crew members and it was known as Bombay, with refurbished airport terminals, massive high rise buildings towering up to 65 stories high and of course the ever expanding movie world of Bollywood.  In all directions, modern, towering office blocks and apartments dot the skyline, heralding a new dawn for an ancient city.    But in so many other ways, there is little change.

The drive into the city from the airport is still a nightmarish struggle through the undisciplined chaos that jams the streets.  Poverty, on a level that re-defines the word, is still all around.  The old shanty towns of decaying cement structures, rusty corrugated iron and plastic sheeting, still line the roadside and the putrid muddy banks of the stagnant, black water canals that twist through the outer city.   Half naked children play in the piles of rotting rubbish that surrounds these shacks whilst mangy, disease ridden dogs roam amongst them, scavenging for anything they can eat.  This is the reality of India, but it is only a part of this great sub-continent and is something that should not be allowed to distract from the overall picture.

Our transport arrives at Mumbai Station, amidst a mass of black and yellow Morris Oxford taxis who’s origins date back to the 1950’s.  The main concourse of the Station is littered with people sprawled all over the floor waiting for trains, but there are other shapeless forms apparently sleeping,  despite the oppressive heat and the fact that it’s only mid afternoon. 

As we step out of our vehicle we’re immediately spotted by Deccan Odyssey staff who thankfully rescue us from this depressing scene and escort us to a private waiting area.  On the way, as we weave through the hordes that litter the concourse floor, we’re acutely aware of the silent, but intently curious stares our presence attracts.    At the waiting room we’re greeted with the traditional Indian floral leas and red dots on foreheads and at 4:00 pm, along with a small group of fellow passengers, we’re taken to board our waiting train.

Twenty one coaches, in royal blue and black stretch along the length of the platform, each coach named and monogrammed with the Deccan Odyssey’s crest.   As we walk past the long line of carriages, I’m struck by the lack of Staff and people on the almost deserted platform.   This is so unlike the scene that greeted us at the Palace on Wheels and just doesn't‘ seem right.  But eventually we arrive at our carriage where Harish, our Coach Manager, dressed in Royal Indian Military costume, greets us and takes us on board. 

The Deccan Odyssey, run by the Taj Hotel Group, has only been operating for about 5 years which is reflected in it’s modern décor and facilities.  Although the cabins (4 to a coach) are similar to those on the Palace on Wheels, they appear larger,  more modern and stylish, and far better appointed with telephone, internet connections and fully tiled ensuites.

After unpacking and settling in, Harish, takes us on a tour of the train.  We walk through a couple of accommodation cars before arriving at the Health Club which features a small gym, a beauty centre for manicures and hair styling, complemented by a massage and sauna facility,  all fully staffed and waiting for business.

We then move into the Conference Car, set up as a library with tables and chairs, a selection of reading material and a large screen, plasma TV.  Two beautifully appointed Dining Cars follow before we enter the Bar Car where we sit and enjoy a cold beer whilst the train commences it’s journey south.

It’s then that we discover the reason for the lack of activity on the platform when we boarded.   Anne and I are sharing this 21 carriage, 5 star Hotel on wheels with just 6 other passengers !  

All of this luxury, all 21 carriages complete with some 25 staff (reduced from the normal 40) , are here to serve just 8 people heading south to Goa !  The staff are quick to point out however that  we’ll pick up a further 10 passengers in Goa for the return journey,  but that will hardly over tax the facilities !

We’ll have 8 days and 7 nights in pure luxury on board this traveling Hotel, with daily sight seeing arranged in a similar manner to the Palace on Wheels, but for us, it will be a refreshing change from the large groups encountered on the previous train..

Dinner is served at 8:00pm and  we sit back with our complementary bottle of wine, enjoying a delightful mix of Indian and Continental cuisine served to traditional Taj Hotel standards.  At around 9:00 pm, some four and a half hours after leaving Mumbai, the train comes to stop.  I comment to our waiter, thinking it’s just another stop on a single track system, made to allow the passing of opposite direction traffic, only to be told,

“Oh no Sir, the train will stop here for 6 hours to allow you a peaceful nights sleep”. 

It will be that way for the first 3 nights !

Only in India …..

8Rajasthan By Train (Part7), by BJ. (19th April '08)

This morning a visit has been arranged to the Ghana Bird Sanctuary near Bharatpur and requires a 5:30 wake up call!   Thankfully, it’s not compulsory.

It’s been a very dry monsoon season for the past couple of years and the usual massive numbers of birds attracted8888 to these wetlands have decreased dramatically.  Besides, it’s likely to be cold in the old fashioned rickshaws provided for the visit (“I really don’t need to take a jacket”) and I’ve had an unusually restless nigh